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Morocco, beyond the guidebook

The version locals keep for themselves — 18 places, tables and moments our concierges send their own guests to, across Marrakech, Casablanca and Tangier.

• ◆The artisan workshops that supply the palaces — not the tourist bazaars
• ◆Rooftop tables over Jemaa el-Fna that only take a phone call
• ◆The quiet hour at each monument, before the coaches arrive
• ◆Six practical tips that quietly save your trip